General Photography thread

[perseus]

Spot the Lizard

Sounds like you need to get used to the settings so you can make the changes quicker. The best way to take this is to Change the aperture to get a larger depth of field.

Alternatively, (and I'm sure I'm teaching you to suck eggs) only press your shoot button halfway to see what is in focus before taking the shot. If it's not what you want, take your finger off shoot and start again. The best way to help the camera focus where you want is to have your subject in the centre and try focus. Reframe the shot, keeping the shoot button half depressed until you are ready.

Stopping down to a higher f. stop, decreasing the aperture is the easiest and most logical move. And quickest too. NB: bridge cameras will have a lesser range of aperture, but because of a small sensor it will make a greater depth of focus so bridge cameras are much easier. The dial changes aperture on the A setting (and P and S) and this is quick to do and everything can be seen in the viewfinder.

On the Nikon D3200 series and entry level cameras in general the way of changing he focus mode is menu driven (takes longer) rather than button driven. This makes quick focus mode changes slower. This and lots of other things the camera reviews do not tell you!



First thing to do is to spot the lizard in the first place. How many can you see? Then they scarper. Changes need to be made to the settings in four seconds for slow lizards, and eight seconds for sun bathing lizards. Mostly, less than a second. Pre-set settings first. I think I will try out single spot focusing?

My bridge camera can store settings for quick retrieval. My Nikon D3200 can't. It didn't say that in the review either. Within a few days of buying an entry level DSLR camera I came across five quite significant problems.

 

[StonehamPark]

What camera did you get?

Farting about what went wrong with the auto-focusing tonight, Apt to repeat recommendations for a newcomer to get bridge camera like a CanonSX60. this are just so much easier whilst still extending quite a lot of scope after you have learned by mistakes.

Trouble with my D3200 Nikon it is intellligent enough to guess the auto-focusing and that;'s OK until it guesses wrong, and then I have to look at the manual cause the jargon is not intuitive for me, to find out what of the multiple settings to put it on.

View attachment 73111

The darn camera focused on the brick and flint rather than the lizard cause if I got closer the lizard would have scarpered. There is a way around this but it needs a lot of practice and I have to remember what is best (depends of what settings/lens etc.) And it takes ages to adjust and any lizard would have buggerd off before I did the adjustments. The bridge cameras are a bit simpler and it is eaiser to remember what to do.

After extensive review reading and research, I went for a Pentax K-S2.
Trumped my next favourite (D5500) in almost every way.

With regards to the focusing, not sure about your camera but with mine you can change auto-focusing preferences in your menu.
I've left mine at the original settings, so with the lizard, I'd center it in the view finder, hold to focus and then move the camera wherever I like and the Lizard would remain in focus (as long as shutter button remains half pressed).

 

[perseus]

Anyrate, My general advice for people that want to take pictures (instead of working a computer) is to buy a bridge camera for two years, and then make the jump to a second level (not entry level) DSLR.

The jump from manual focus film cameras to autofocus digital cameras is like DOS to Windows.

Bridge camera lizard (before I got the new zoom lens):

View attachment 73126

 

[StonehamPark]

Anyrate, My general advice for people that want to take pictures (instead of working a computer) is to buy a bridge camera for two years, and then make the jump to a second level (not entry level) DSLR.

The jump from manual focus film cameras to autofocus digital cameras is like DOS to Windows.

That's fair enough, but depends on the person getting into photography I guess.

I picked up a mid-level DSLR and read books/watched tutorials and was off and away after 3 days.
Only experience taking photo's previously has been via a phone, so ultimately, none.

2 years to learn on a bridge?

But then maybe I'm just the gifted individual my Mum's always said I am.

Next on the agenda for me is multiple long exposure Astro shots with layering in Photoshop.
Tripod ready to go, just need a nice clear night.

 

[perseus]

After extensive review reading and research, I went for a Pentax K-S2.
Trumped my next favourite (D5500) in almost every way.

With regards to the focusing, not sure about your camera but with mine you can change auto-focusing preferences in your menu.
I've left mine at the original settings, so with the lizard, I'd center it in the view finder, hold to focus and then move the camera wherever I like and the Lizard would remain in focus (as long as shutter button remains half pressed).

My Nikon will choose (it is very bloody minded) to focus on the brick wall if left to its own devices. I have to tell the camera what to do!

It is a bit of a dull day to day. Not only does it mean the lizards will stay inside their holes, but there is less light available for a smaller aperture to be successful.

 

[Triggaaar]

The best way to take this is to Change the aperture to get a larger depth of field.

If he wants the lizard in focus, and doesn't care what the photo looks like, that's fine. But what if he doesn't want a large depth of field with everything in focus?

Alternatively, (and I'm sure I'm teaching you to suck eggs) only press your shoot button halfway to see what is in focus before taking the shot.

Eh? Half pressing the shutter release will cause the camera to focus, but it won't tell you what's in focus once you've taken the shot, because you'll still be looking through the lens at maximum aperture. To see what would be in focus you'd need to press the Depth Of Field preview button - although I wouldn't recommend doing that for a shot like this where timing is of the essence, you just need to learn what aperture will suit the shot you're after.

The best way to help the camera focus where you want is to have your subject in the centre and try focus. Reframe the shot, keeping the shoot button half depressed until you are ready.

He'd be better moving his focus point to the position where he'd like his subject.

Stopping down to a higher f. stop, decreasing the aperture is the easiest and most logical move. And quickest too. NB: bridge cameras will have a lesser range of aperture, but because of a small sensor it will make a greater depth of focus so bridge cameras are much easier.

But having a shallow DOF can be important to make the image look the way you want.

On the Nikon D3200 series and entry level cameras in general the way of changing he focus mode is menu driven (takes longer) rather than button driven. This makes quick focus mode changes slower. This and lots of other things the camera reviews do not tell you!

The reviews should tell you, but you need to know a bit before you'd pick up on what the review is saying. But it's not a problem, you shouldn't need to be changing focus mode regularly. Find what works for a particular subject type, master it and stick to it.

First thing to do is to spot the lizard in the first place. How many can you see? Then they scarper. Changes need to be made to the settings in four seconds for slow lizards, and eight seconds for sun bathing lizards.

All you should really need to change is the position of your focus point and your aperture.

I think I will try out single spot focusing?

That would be a good plan. You can quickly move the focus point, aim and shoot.

Within a few days of buying an entry level DSLR camera I came across five quite significant problems.

I'd say you haven't learnt how best to use it yet. It should do just fine.

 

[brightn'ove]

Anyrate, My general advice for people that want to take pictures (instead of working a computer) is to buy a bridge camera for two years, and then make the jump to a second level (not entry level) DSLR.

The jump from manual focus film cameras to autofocus digital cameras is like DOS to Windows.

Bridge camera lizard (before I got the new zoom lens):

View attachment 73126

I would disagree. Jump in at the deep end, once you've got the hang of the three things that affect exposure all you need to do is get on your bike and take photos.

As for focusing I've always used single spot focus. Only the really high-end and brand new DSLRs and Mirrorless cameras can pick out perfect autofocus on their own, even then it's still dodgy. Personally I use centre spot focus then recompose, although for macro and closeups with a tiny depth of field you will need to move the focus point otherwise the focus will change when you move the camera.

 

[Triggaaar]

My Nikon will choose (it is very bloody minded) to focus on the brick wall if left to its own devices. I have to tell the camera what to do!

Yes, and quite right too. You're the photographer, you don't want the camera choosing what to focus on. And it takes no time. If you're aperture is already set, you're on single point focus, just point at the lizard and shoot. Your bridge camera wouldn't focus on the eye of the lizard, it can just make sure everything is in focus, which isn't that exciting.

 

[StonehamPark]

It is a bit of a dull day to day. Not only does it mean the lizards will stay inside their holes, but there is less light available for a smaller aperture to be successful.

Maybe experiment with some long exposure shots if you've got still lizards, would be interested to see how they would turn out as that's next on my 'to-learn' list.

 

[perseus]

After extensive review reading and research, I went for a Pentax K-S2.
Trumped my next favourite (D5500) in almost every way.

With regards to the focusing, not sure about your camera but with mine you can change auto-focusing preferences in your menu.
I've left mine at the original settings, so with the lizard, I'd center it in the view finder, hold to focus and then move the camera wherever I like and the Lizard would remain in focus (as long as shutter button remains half pressed).

It seems a much better camera, the Pentax K-S2.

 

[Triggaaar]

Maybe experiment with some long exposure shots if you've got still lizards

(I'm not meaning to be mean or rude)

What would you hope to achieve from a long exposure shot of a lizard?

 

[brightn'ove]

but there is less light available for a smaller aperture to be successful.

Increase your ISO

 

[Triggaaar]

Increase your ISO

And don't use a smaller aperture in the first place.

 

[perseus]

I would disagree. Jump in at the deep end, once you've got the hang of the three things that affect exposure all you need to do is get on your bike and take photos.

As for focusing I've always used single spot focus. Only the really high-end and brand new DSLRs and Mirrorless cameras can pick out perfect autofocus on their own, even then it's still dodgy. Personally I use centre spot focus then recompose, although for macro and closeups with a tiny depth of field you will need to move the focus point otherwise the focus will change when you move the camera.

I agree with single spot focusing. I wish there was button (not menu driven). The might be on some cameras. Going to have to try it out. I only got he new lens yesterday.

Bridge cameras have two settings. One for spot focusing and one for wide ange focusing. I only use the narrow angle (nearer to spot focusing). Always used the narrow angle.

 

[brightn'ove]

I agree with single spot focusing. I wish there was button (not menu driven). The might be on some cameras. Going to have to try it out. I only got he new lens yesterday.

Bridge cameras have two settings. One for spot focusing and one for wide ange focusing. I only use the narrow angle (nearer to spot focusing). Always used the narrow angle.

What camera do you have? I have a VERY old canon DSLR and it has a button that allows you to choose the focus point, i'm sure that on most DSLRs there are buttons to choose focus mode and focus point rather than a menu.

Also all bridge cameras are different, they can range from very close to DSLR to point-and-shoot. If you have a DSLR im certain there will be a way for you to set focus points with buttons rather than in the menu.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqMTaPE7wFg

 

[StonehamPark]

(I'm not meaning to be mean or rude)

What would you hope to achieve from a long exposure shot of a lizard?

And don't use a smaller aperture in the first place.

Long exposure, more light is absorbed, keep the ISO down, sharper images.
As he's working in low light.

 

[brightn'ove]

Long exposure, more light is absorbed, keep the ISO down, sharper images.
As he's working in low light.

Lizards move very quickly is his point I think, you need to have a fast shutter speed. ISO doesn't affect the sharpness of the image, it affects the 'gain' on the sensor, which affects the exposure, each ISO (100, 200, 400 etc) is a full stop, so twice as much light as the previous setting. For fast shutter speeds in low light, you need a high ISO. Sports photographers shoot with very high ISO and very fast shutter speeds for example. Newer cameras can go up to pretty high ISO settings without there being too much noise, older cameras struggle with this.

edit: should've mentioned, the things that affect 'sharpness' are the quality of the lens (never worry about this, all modern lenses are sharp), the shutter speed (the camera has to be able to freeze the 'action' whether that is the stars at night or a speeding car, choose the appropriate setting), the focus and camera shake (linked to shutter speed - faster shutter speed = less chance of camera shake). The aperture arguably affects sharpness of the image as a whole, but not the sharpness of the point in focus.

 

[perseus]

There is quite a lot to learn. Trouble is I forget. Good to know it can be done, then it is just remembering how to do it.

New lens is the Tamron 16-300 which cost more than the camera. Macro is not 1:1 but fill-in flash can be used at 300 mm macro. I would shortlist this lens. Better bet than a 55-200 I had before. 18-55 is OK but 16mm is better.

PS: I have just thought of a short cut to the focusing problem. Put it on single spot focusing for Aperture priority, and stop down maximum (higher f number) (not to worry about bokeh). For landscape shots, I can switch to auto.

ISO is on auto (in menu). Maximum can be specified in the menu. ISO button is not needed.

 

[Triggaaar]

Long exposure, more light is absorbed, keep the ISO down, sharper images.
As he's working in low light.

Obviously increasing the shutter speed a little and preferably using a lens with image stabilisation could be good, but for long exposures he'll need a tripod, and from what he's said I'd guess that setting his tripod up without the lizard moving is going to be tricky.

A long exposure should probably be the last resort in this situation, when he's at as wide an aperture as the style of photo can take and he's hit the limit of his camera's useful ISO.

If he's got a lizard that really won't move, fine, go for it.

 

[StonehamPark]

Lizards move very quickly is his point I think, you need to have a fast shutter speed. ISO doesn't affect the sharpness of the image, it affects the 'gain' on the sensor, which affects the exposure, each ISO (100, 200, 400 etc) is a full stop, so twice as much light as the previous setting. For fast shutter speeds in low light, you need a high ISO. Sports photographers shoot with very high ISO and very fast shutter speeds for example. Newer cameras can go up to pretty high ISO settings without there being too much noise, older cameras struggle with this.

Yup, that's all good, however I said might be worth a shot if he's got still lizards. Worth a go.

Obviously no chance of it working if the lizards are moving, but everything I've read so far points to keeping the ISO low if you can, as higher ISO makes grainy photo's.
Mainly just good practice with long exposures.