[Help] Gardeners Question Time.

[Coldeanseagull]

I prefer a swoe to a hoe but I use both
Well done to petunia for identifying the cordyline...although the description I read confuses itself by saying don't get stricta and congesta mixed up as they both have the same common name!

 

[Stat Brother]

Poppy seed distribution isn't a strong point at Chez Stat.



Edit.

This thread tells me these poppy seeds have been in the ground for exactly 2 weeks.

 

[Taybha]

This thread is full of Buggery, not something I expected but it's come in handy as I'm slowly digging a pond hole, should I line or should I mould, I'm nearly a foot down so need swaying.

 

[Jack Straw]

Poppy seed distribution isn't a strong point at Chez Stat.

View attachment 122954

Edit.

This thread tells me these poppy seeds have been in the ground for exactly 2 weeks.

Looks to me like it's going OK. They'll grow virtually by the day. Keep us posted with a photo or two.
At the moment, WLB is not necessary!

 

[Jack Straw]

This thread is full of Buggery, not something I expected but it's come in handy as I'm slowly digging a pond hole, should I line or should I mould, I'm nearly a foot down so need swaying.

View attachment 122955

Jevs is your man, but until he posts, the size should be dependent on the size of the garden and its surroundings. If it's too small it will look like a puddle. If it's too big, it could look like a swimming pool, but it's always better to go bigger rather than smaller. Mark out with whatever you've got. Just space out some plant pots, bits of stuff, anything at all just to give you an idea of how it will fit in to what you've got.
You don't need it any deeper than 900mm but a minimum of 450mm, so anywhere in between. Try to leave a shelf around the outside of between 100mm and 150mm deep and 150mm wide to stand marginal plants on and it gives a submerged micro-climate for the creatures that prefer that depth and a slightly higher temperature.
Make the first bit down to the shelf, a gentle slope. This will allow you to lay turf to hide the liner without it slipping in to the pond and allow creatures to get in and out.
The most important thing of all is to make sure it is DEAD LEVEL! Check, check and check again as you build it.
A proper butyl rubber liner is the way to go, laid on a fleece. The fleece should stop any sharp bits from underneath piercing the liner. It's not a bad idea to put a 20mm layer of sand over the area first as a belt and braces measure.
There's lots of help with working out how big you liner needs to be on the internet. It will be much bigger than the square area of the pond you've dug, then you need it to go under the turf at the edge too.
Another tip is to angle down the soil away from the edge of the pond so the liner is buried deeper to allow more soil on the top which will be better for turf.
Wait until after you've filled it with water which you need to do before you sort out the turf edging as this will weigh the liner down pulling it in a bit, and flatten it out.
If you're able to keep some big pieces of turf, they can be used to hide the edge of the liner. If you can't, it's a good idea to buy some.
If it's going to be a wildlife pond, apart from a few pond plants, that's about it. If you need it for fish, this is where you need Jev's advice. He is NSC's fish pond and tropical fish guru.
Please keep us posted with photos to let us know how progress is going. It's great to see peoples' projects on here.
That background is a gardener's dream. Some clever planting and you can link that in to make it look like it's part of your garden.
Any more advice needed, just ask. We're here to help!

 

[Taybha]

Jevs is your man, but until he posts, the size should be dependent on the size of the garden and its surroundings. If it's too small it will look like a puddle. If it's too big, it could look like a swimming pool, but it's always better to go bigger rather than smaller. Mark out with whatever you've got. Just space out some plant pots, bits of stuff, anything at all just to give you an idea of how it will fit in to what you've got.
You don't need it any deeper than 900mm but a minimum of 450mm, so anywhere in between. Try to leave a shelf around the outside of between 100mm and 150mm deep and 150mm wide to stand marginal plants on and it gives a submerged micro-climate for the creatures that prefer that depth and a slightly higher temperature.
Make the first bit down to the shelf, a gentle slope. This will allow you to lay turf to hide the liner without it slipping in to the pond and allow creatures to get in and out.
The most important thing of all is to make sure it is DEAD LEVEL! Check, check and check again as you build it.
A proper butyl rubber liner is the way to go, laid on a fleece. The fleece should stop any sharp bits from underneath piercing the liner. It's not a bad idea to put a 20mm layer of sand over the area first as a belt and braces measure.
There's lots of help with working out how big you liner needs to be on the internet. It will be much bigger than the square area of the pond you've dug, then you need it to go under the turf at the edge too.
Another tip is to angle down the soil away from the edge of the pond so the liner is buried deeper to allow more soil on the top which will be better for turf.
Wait until after you've filled it with water which you need to do before you sort out the turf edging as this will weigh the liner down pulling it in a bit, and flatten it out.
If you're able to keep some big pieces of turf, they can be used to hide the edge of the liner. If you can't, it's a good idea to buy some.
If it's going to be a wildlife pond, apart from a few pond plants, that's about it. If you need it for fish, this is where you need Jev's advice. He is NSC's fish pond and tropical fish guru.
Please keep us posted with photos to let us know how progress is going. It's great to see peoples' projects on here.
That background is a gardener's dream. Some clever planting and you can link that in to make it look like it's part of your garden.
Any more advice needed, just ask. We're here to help!

Lovely stuff thanks for that, the fence opens up and there's a stream 10 yards in front of the fence, I've stepped the river bank and started planting stuff out there, I've got plenty of turf for the edging if I go the liner route which I think I will, the beach opposite has millions of free rocks, I will post the progress (if any) when I can, thanks again, some excellent tips I hadn't even thought of.

 

[Deportivo Seagull]

One of our roses (potted) has gone from looking ridiculously healthy to having drooping leaves which look dry and yellow. Any ideas as I know the square root of bugger all when it comes to roses.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Greavsey]

Loving this thread and the resident expertise provided...

I have a problem with a box hedge in my front garden, over the last few weeks it has started looking like this:


Any ideas what is going on and remedies would be gratefully received? The company that sourced and planted these said they should be box blight resistant, so hoping it's not that!

 

[Jack Straw]

One of our roses (potted) has gone from looking ridiculously healthy to having drooping leaves which look dry and yellow. Any ideas as I know the square root of bugger all when it comes to roses.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Photos are a must so we can diagnose things easier.
Roses never do well in pots. Even when it rains a lot, pots still need watering, perhaps every day. We don't know how big the pot is, but regardless, the soil could be very dry.
Was there black spots on the leaves before they went yellow?
Photos please, and have a little dig of the soil to see if it's moist.

 

[Jack Straw]

Loving this thread and the resident expertise provided...

I have a problem with a box hedge in my front garden, over the last few weeks it has started looking like this:
View attachment 122961

Any ideas what is going on and remedies would be gratefully received? The company that sourced and planted these said they should be box blight resistant, so hoping it's not that!

Is there any webbing visible, like spiders web silk type stuff? If you look at my close up screen shot of your photo, half way up on the left is a Box Tree Moth caterpillar. This is your culprit!
https://jamestodman.com/2019/05/11/five-ways-to-beat-the-box-tree-caterpillar/

 

[timbha]

easy one for the experts.

I'm repairing bare patches of my lawn with grass seed and have covered the worst bits with clear Perspex (ex shed windows) sitting on bricks, mainly to keep the birds off. The seeds have just started to germinate. Should I leave the plastic covering on whilst its raining or will a good soaking do it good? The areas are well ventilated.

 

[Jack Straw]

OFF. OFF. OFF! The birds won't be interested once it's germinated. If you raked the seed in, there would be enough for the birds and to repair the patches.
Cheerio, cheerio, cheerio... (waves white tissue at departing piece of perspex!).

 

[timbha]

OFF. OFF. OFF! The birds won't be interested once it's germinated. If you raked the seed in, there would be enough for the birds and to repair the patches.
Cheerio, cheerio, cheerio... (waves white tissue at departing piece of perspex!).

Thanks Jack. Perspex duly red carded and subjected to pantomime villain abuse.

 

[Deportivo Seagull]

Photos are a must so we can diagnose things easier.
Roses never do well in pots. Even when it rains a lot, pots still need watering, perhaps every day. We don't know how big the pot is, but regardless, the soil could be very dry.
Was there black spots on the leaves before they went yellow?
Photos please, and have a little dig of the soil to see if it's moist.

No black spots. Been in the pot for years but re potted a couple of years ago. Until the last week it’s been fine ....
I’ll send a photo as soon as it stops bloody raining.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[WATFORD zero]

Looks to me like it's going OK. They'll grow virtually by the day. Keep us posted with a photo or two.
At the moment, WLB is not necessary!

Thank God for that. I've been getting soaked through following your advice on my bloody Peonies

 

[WATFORD zero]

Loving this thread and the resident expertise provided...

I have a problem with a box hedge in my front garden, over the last few weeks it has started looking like this:
View attachment 122961

Any ideas what is going on and remedies would be gratefully received? The company that sourced and planted these said they should be box blight resistant, so hoping it's not that!

That is definitely Box Tree Caterpillars, you can see them in the photo and I have experience of these buggers

It looks like your box has already taken quite a hit. If it's a few plants you may be better off replacing them with another small leafed plant.. If you are going to take them on, it will be a long job.

End of last season, I got them on most of my box hedging. What I did was go through with a small rake, raking out all dead leaves, cobwebs, caterpillars and cocoons and then burning all that. I then blasted all the hedges with Provanto Ultimate Bug Killer. (As a tip buy concentrate and use a normal spray gun - far cheaper than buying ready mix). The boxes were fine all through the winter and had started to put on lots of new growth.

I also got pheromone traps from here https://www.greengardener.co.uk/shop/pest-control-outdoors/box-tree-caterpillars-and-blight/box-tree-moth-buxus-trap-lure.html

About 3 weeks ago, I put up pheromone traps for the Adult male moths. I hadn't caught any moths, but found some small caterpillars a few days ago. Blasted them again with Provanto, then a couple of days later I trimmed all the hedges back as there was lots of new growth and the caterpillars seem to hide further down into the plant where they are protected by the new growth.

Once we get a couple of warm days, I am going to spray them again and hope the pheromone traps kick in with new 'generations'. You can get Nematodes if you don't like the idea of Insecticides.

Let us know how you get on and maybe we can set up a support group

 

[Greavsey]

That is definitely Box Tree Caterpillars, you can see them in the photo and I have experience of these buggers

It looks like your box has already taken quite a hit. If it's a few plants you may be better off replacing them with another small leafed plant.. If you are going to take them on, it will be a long job.

End of last season, I got them on most of my box hedging. What I did was go through with a small rake, raking out all dead leaves, cobwebs, caterpillars and cocoons and then burning all that. I then blasted all the hedges with Provanto Ultimate Bug Killer. (As a tip buy concentrate and use a normal spray gun - far cheaper than buying ready mix). The boxes were fine all through the winter and had started to put on lots of new growth.

I also got pheromone traps from here https://www.greengardener.co.uk/shop/pest-control-outdoors/box-tree-caterpillars-and-blight/box-tree-moth-buxus-trap-lure.html

About 3 weeks ago, I put up pheromone traps for the Adult male moths. I hadn't caught any moths, but found some small caterpillars a few days ago. Blasted them again with Provanto, then a couple of days later I trimmed all the hedges back as there was lots of new growth and the caterpillars seem to hide further down into the plant where they are protected by the new growth.

Once we get a couple of warm days, I am going to spray them again and hope the pheromone traps kick in with new 'generations'. You can get Nematodes if you don't like the idea of Insecticides.

Let us know how you get on and maybe we can set up a support group

Good god, sounds like a massive ball ache! I have approx 20 linear metres around our front garden of the stuff! Will the box grow back after all the trimming!? Also, I'm assuming they can come back or are there any preventative measures?


Thank you though!

 

[Stat Brother]

Good god, sounds like a massive ball ache! I have approx 20 linear metres around our front garden of the stuff! Will the box grow back after all the trimming!? Also, I'm assuming they can come back or are there any preventative measures?


Thank you though!

Pay someone to put down some concreteia, ball ache solved.

 

[Jack Straw]

Good god, sounds like a massive ball ache! I have approx 20 linear metres around our front garden of the stuff! Will the box grow back after all the trimming!? Also, I'm assuming they can come back or are there any preventative measures?
Thank you though!

Once you've got it as bad as you seem to have, painful as it may seem, I'd dig them all out and put in something else. If you cut them back, they will come back, but as sure as eggs are eggs, either the caterpillars will also come back at some point, or they'll get Box Blight.
Look for an evergreen that ultimately doesn't grow very tall and withstands regular clipping. Plants to consider could be;
Ilex crenata and varieties of - (dwarf holly)
Euonymous japonicus microphyllus and varieties.
Lonicer nitida elegans and varieties.
Berberis darwinii compacta.
If I had to choose a low growing hedge, my choice would be Photinia x fraseri "Little Red Robin". https://www.best4hedging.co.uk/photinia-little-red-robin-p157

 

[WATFORD zero]

Good god, sounds like a massive ball ache! I have approx 20 linear metres around our front garden of the stuff! Will the box grow back after all the trimming!? Also, I'm assuming they can come back or are there any preventative measures?


Thank you though!

Very similar to myself with lots of box hedging, but I'd agree with [MENTION=259]Jack Straw[/MENTION] that it's decision time.

If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have gone with box, but it's probably taken me 5-7 years to get to what I now have with my box hedging. (And it does look great!).

If you decide to take the buggers on, I suspect it will be an ongoing battle, but I'm hoping that pheromone traps, renewed each year, together with a couple of sprays (insecticide or nematode) each year will keep them at bay.

Let us know what you decide to do