Yes Chef
Well-known member
I spent quite a while in Indonesia during the time of "President" (Dictator really) Suharto, and it was true that most people on the surface (probably out of fear) claimed to have blind faith in the ruling Golkar party. But you could always find a few who would tell you what they really thought about the "korupsi" that was rife throughout the system. One guy gave me quite a detailed price list (long since forgotten) about how much it cost to buy yourself a government job or get someone killed...
The only place you could sense real fear and oppression, however, was in East Timor, which was then still under illegal Indonesian occupation. A few people there started to talk to us on occasion, but were always on edge and quick to disappear at the slightest sign of a problem. But even then, Dili was really just a sleepy little laid-back fishing port (or so it appeared to an outsider - I'm sure the people living there were having a shit time).
In reference to your point about international news coverage. My wife and I were two of only about 6 foreigners who were in Dili during the first anniversary of the "Santa Cruz massacre". It did make us laugh when we listened to the BBC World Service reporting the anniversary on the radio. The reporter was banging on about the military being posted on every street corner in Dili and tensions running high - yet he was filing his report from 2,000km away in his hotel bar in Jakarta. There were military about, but only a handful and no more so than any other day.
Moreover, most of said military were originally from Bali and a pretty mild bunch. I found this out when we got the bus back to West Timor, and at a roadblock checkpoint on the edge of Dili one of them demanded to see the 'surat jalan' (travel permit) that we didn't have. I just looked him in the eye and told him we didn't need one. I've still got no idea whether that was true or not, but clearly he didn't know either, as instead of arresting us he just went 'er, OK' and proceeded to ask us about how much we'd enjoyed his home island...
Thanks for the interesting insights. I was there during the Surahto era, as a fairly vacuous 20 year old, island hopping on the old Pelni lines.