Wrong fluid chap - maybe confusing the old manual "choke" requirement for cold-starts?
Engine wear is a factor of lubricant [oil] not fuel [petrol/diesel] - unless you are referring to a fuel/oil mixed two-stroke.
Back in the mid-80's I took delivery of my first four-stroke race bike [GSXR 750] and attended a technical workshop at Suzuki's HQ in Croydon. One of the things that will live long in the memory that day is when they removed the cam-cover and started the engine from cold. It was almost 20 seconds on idle before ANY oil made it up from the sump to the camshaft. If you'd given it large-welly from stone cold I suspect the top-end would have seized. The point was also made about correct oil viscosity [thickness] - back then most 4-strokes were 10-40 & 20-50 but now 5-30 is more common - generally thinner oil, but with lots of synthetic additions to help it do a better job.
In essence - 30 seconds on tick-over and then 5 mins gentle load before full beans should be considered
I think warming the car up is up there with 'use the engine to brake' in modern vehicles. Only time I'll do it is if it's iced up, then it gets a few mins on the drive to thaw. Can't floor it immediately even if I wanted to as it takes a few mins to get to anywhere that you could.
Do you get engine heater options over there ? I Kow some do in Scandinavia, if it gets that cold things seize up. even starter motors. batteries fail as well.