[Misc] No hot water from boiler

[happypig]

Another vote for the synchron motor in the valve, they are permanently energised and eventually burn out.

You can change them without draining the system or removing the valve (As I was advised by a plumber friend after I'd drained the system and removed the valve)

 

[drew]

As someone else said, is it a combi or do you have a hot water tank?

 

[Wardy's twin]

not sure about a plumber but you definitely need a cleaner

 

[Bozza]

Cover off the Honeywell box. No obvious sight/sound when I demand hot water.

 

[Rowdey]

Not up on Aristons, but

1:
System pressure is very low, and possibly not getting up to cylinder - Increase this to 1.5bar MAX via a filling loop (braided hose, at least one valve either end)
2:
That one valve - when you have CH on, does the pipe get hot either side of it ?
3: Pic of cylinder..? Does it have another zone valve near it?

 

[dazzer6666]

5 minute job

 

[Bozza]

Not up on Aristons, but

1:
System pressure is very low, and possibly not getting up to cylinder - Increase this to 1.5bar MAX via a filling loop (braided hose, at least one valve either end)
2:
That one valve - when you have CH on, does the pipe get hot either side of it ?
3: Pic of cylinder..? Does it have another zone valve near it?

This is close to the cylinder.

 

[dingodan]

 

[Madafwo]

Cover off the Honeywell box. No obvious sight/sound when I demand hot water.

I'd suggest replacing that, if you're confident rewiring a plug that shouldn't be much harder.

Usual disclaimers apply don't blame me if you kill yourself. If you're worried get one of the kids to do it, the expendable one.

 

[boik]

I'd suggest replacing that, if you're confident rewiring a plug that shouldn't be much harder.

Usual disclaimers apply don't blame me if you kill yourself. If you're worried get one of the kids to do it, the expendable one.

Yep, I concur that this is the most likely suspect, and it is easy enough. Not sure how much a heating engineer would charge to change it, if you don't fancy it.

 

[peterward]

Not up on Aristons, but

1:
System pressure is very low, and possibly not getting up to cylinder - Increase this to 1.5bar MAX via a filling loop (braided hose, at least one valve either end)
2:
That one valve - when you have CH on, does the pipe get hot either side of it ?
3: Pic of cylinder..? Does it have another zone valve near it?

Was going to write something similar, but in the company of obvious experts I didn't until you wrote above. I noticed the same zero pressure on the boiler.

Had similar problems to [MENTION=6886]Bozza[/MENTION] last winter - no hot water, system boiler with megaflo water tank, turned out the boiler pressure had gone to zero (normally about 1 bar with no demand) simply increasing boiler pressure, and whole system started working again

But no idea if that will help you. Best ask the boiler engineer fellas on here who are obvs ITK!

 

[Harry Wilson's tackle]

This is out in the garage. I'm sharing this detail to provide an excuse for what an utter mess it is.

My first thought was 'could do with a bit of dusting, mate'

 

[vegster]

Surely there is some kind of Apple app for sorting all this ?

 

[symyjym]

I had this problem with my Ariston a few years ago and the issue was a dirty plate heat exchanger. Like this
The problem is that it is a process of elimination and if it wasn't the plate heat exchanger we would have had to try something else.

I have since replaced the boiler on advice from my heating engineer and my Ariston looked like a newer model than yours, which I go ten years out of. Your Ariston model looks like 20 years old and will probably cost you more to maintain that than to get a new smart Vaillant fitted.

I would highly recommend Charlie from Pavilion Heating to service, fix or replace your boiler.
https://www.pavilionheating.co.uk/

 

[Bozza]

Was going to write something similar, but in the company of obvious experts I didn't until you wrote above. I noticed the same zero pressure on the boiler.

Had similar problems to [MENTION=6886]Bozza[/MENTION] last winter - no hot water, system boiler with megaflo water tank, turned out the boiler pressure had gone to zero (normally about 1 bar with no demand) simply increasing boiler pressure, and whole system started working again

But no idea if that will help you. Best ask the boiler engineer fellas on here who are obvs ITK!

The heating and hot water expert in the house tells me the pressure is Norma for our boiler when it’s running (it was on heating duty when I took that photo) and whenever she tops it up, the pressure quickly returns to the level it’s on currently.

When it’s not running the heating it’s on 1 bar, give or take.

We do have BG heating cover, I just wanted to see if there was something quick and obvious we’d missed that would save calling them out.

 

[PeterOut]

The heating and hot water expert in the house tells me the pressure is Norma for our boiler when it’s running (it was on heating duty when I took that photo) and whenever she tops it up, the pressure quickly returns to the level it’s on currently.

When it’s not running the heating it’s on 1 bar, give or take.

We do have BG heating cover, I just wanted to see if there was something quick and obvious we’d missed that would save calling them out.

I'm sure Ben's Grandad is packing his tools, looking up the bus routes, and will be with you shortly.
I await his requests for NSC's advice

 

[Blue3]

I had this problem in my old flat 20 iodd years ago . . . . hot in and a 2 way outlet, one for water, one for heating, or a bit of both . . . . valve scales up and ceases to move . . . . a quick fix was to remove the electric control part and manually move the valve to 50/50

Assuming it's a combi boiler then the mixer valve built within boiler

 

[Guinness Boy]

It must be one of those weekends for annoying plumbing incidents in Mod World.

Drain in the back garden blocked yesterday. Tried a plunger - nope. Tried our jet washer - nope. Called a decent local company (non decent ones may also be available) who came and the bloke unblocked it with a bigger plunger and more powerful jet.

£125 for about 10 minutes work. Still. it's not like late January is absolutely the worst possible time for these sorts of things to happen finance wise.....

I wonder if I'd have asked NSC they'd have told me to get a bigger plunger or just told me to clean the brickwork........

 

[PeterOut]

It must be one of those weekends for annoying plumbing incidents in Mod World.

Drain in the back garden blocked yesterday. Tried a plunger - nope. Tried our jet washer - nope. Called a decent local company (non decent ones may also be available) who came and the bloke unblocked it with a bigger plunger and more powerful jet.

£125 for about 10 minutes work. Still. it's not like late January is absolutely the worst possible time for these sorts of things to happen finance wise.....

I wonder if I'd have asked NSC they'd have told me to get a bigger plunger or just told me to clean the brickwork........

I'm pretty sure somebody would have told you that you need a bigger plunger

 

[peterward]

The heating and hot water expert in the house tells me the pressure is Norma for our boiler when it’s running (it was on heating duty when I took that photo) and whenever she tops it up, the pressure quickly returns to the level it’s on currently.

When it’s not running the heating it’s on 1 bar, give or take.

We do have BG heating cover, I just wanted to see if there was something quick and obvious we’d missed that would save calling them out.

For the avoidance of the blind leading the blind, maybe others will chip in!

Your boiler from that pic shows pressure just above zero bar about 0.2.

On my boiler it's at 1 bar with heating/water off, put them on and the pressure goes up slightly...... not down.

Again, maybe it's a difference in boiler or type of boiler or something?, I'm really no expert but anywhere around zero bar, that yours show on that pic, my hot water doesn't work as not enough pressure.