[Misc] Lawn growing

[jevs]

Plan C for me.

In my humble opinion.....i'd just give the existing area a rake over with a lawn rake just to scuff it up a bit and over seed.

The problem is, unless you give the lawn time to recover and the grass seed to grow (possibly fencing the area off temporarily), you will keep getting the same problem.

 

[Billy the Fish]

I was thinking B, good tip about looking for quick growing rye grass seeds too.

https://www.johnsonslawnseed.com/product-range/tuffgrass

I use this stuff, mainly because it's what they sell at the local garden centre, but I've had some good results with it and it seems to take a bit of punishment.

 

[WATFORD zero]

Isn't it still a little early (and cold) to over seed just yet ?

Good tip about the ryegrass, with that amount of foxes, dog etc I'd look for the hardest wearing grass seed you can find. Most standard stuff is simply too fine for that sort of traffic.

 

[Weststander]

I was thinking B, good tip about looking for quick growing rye grass seeds too.

When you do, make sure the soil is moist and lightly kept moist until the new grass is established.

I've tried over-seeding half a dozen times, making sure I followed all the RHS and seed suppliers advice, but it only worked once. The other times, a waste of time and money. I think it was due to the prolonged dry spells we get, on our very free draining soil/substrata.

[A stunningly good looking hound btw].

 

[Weststander]

Isn't it still a little early (and cold) to over seed just yet ?

Good tip about the ryegrass, with that amount of foxes, dog etc I'd look for the hardest wearing grass seed you can find. Most standard stuff is simply too fine for that sort of traffic.

I always wait for you to give nsc the go-ahead!

 

[Bold Seagull]

When you do, make sure the soil is moist and lightly kept moist until the new grass is established.

I've tried over-seeding half a dozen times, making sure I followed all the RHS and seed suppliers advice, but it only worked once. The other times, a waste of time and money. I think it was due to the prolonged dry spells we get, on our very free draining soil/substrata.

[A stunningly good looking hound btw].

So given you've tried a few times with seeding, would you say it's potentially a Plan A, feed and look after it, but just see what happens on recovery - if it doesn't or not sufficiently, then think about the whole seeding thing autumn or next spring?

 

[WATFORD zero]

I always wait for you to give nsc the go-ahead!

I'm looking for a warm wet spell hopefully somewhere at the beginning or mid April

Like most things in life, it always works better when it's moist and warm

 

[WATFORD zero]

So given you've tried a few times with seeding, would you say it's potentially a Plan A, feed and look after it, but just see what happens on recovery - if it doesn't or not sufficiently, then think about the whole seeding thing autumn or next spring?

[MENTION=259]Jack Straw[/MENTION] knows the key to Plan C. IIRC it's got something to do with buggery

*edit* I seem to have slipped into channeling Kenneth Williams in the last few minutes. I do apologise

 

[Billy the Fish]

Isn't it still a little early (and cold) to over seed just yet ?

Good tip about the ryegrass, with that amount of foxes, dog etc I'd look for the hardest wearing grass seed you can find. Most standard stuff is simply too fine for that sort of traffic.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2647248

Next two weeks are ok I reckon, soil temp is nearly 10 already, that'll take in no time. Not much rain forecast so it'll definitely need a bit of help with water.

I've had best results when I've roughed the ground up first and used a top dressing. I just use top soil from the garden center but sieve it first.

*Edit* Although again this is my amature opinion, be interested to know what the pros think

 

[Harry Wilson's tackle]

[MENTION=259]Jack Straw[/MENTION] knows the key to Plan C. IIRC it's got something to do with buggery

*edit* I seem to have slipped into channeling Kenneth Williams in the last few minutes. I do apologise

 

[Weststander]

So given you've tried a few times with seeding, would you say it's potentially a Plan A, feed and look after it, but just see what happens on recovery - if it doesn't or not sufficiently, then think about the whole seeding thing autumn or next spring?

With those large bare patches, I think you'll have to either reseed or prepare with 'exact' oblongs to lay a few turfs. You can buy small amounts from Homebase. This spring.

Otherwise you'll always face an uphill battle with weeds filling the gaps.

 

[Jack Straw]

Plan C for me.

In my humble opinion.....i'd just give the existing area a rake over with a lawn rake just to scuff it up a bit and over seed.

The problem is, unless you give the lawn time to recover and the grass seed to grow (possibly fencing the area off temporarily), you will keep getting the same problem.

As Jevs says, although I would fork over the bare bits to a depth of 4-6 inches. Sow fresh grass seed at a hand-full per m2, and rake it in so you can hardly see it. Use grass seed consisting of a mix of cultivars so if one fails, the others should ensure germination and growth.
One of the rules of grass seed sowing is, "It's better in the ground than in the sack." Now is a good time of year to sow it, and you won't have to water like buggery, (WLB) for a few months or more.
This is the sort of seed I would recommend; https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwiQxoW3lMn2AhUHC-wKHS_XBggQ9pwGCAU
If you get it from a horticultural company who sell a lot of it, it will be fresh, and hence germination will be good.

 

[Weststander]

As Jevs says, although I would fork over the bare bits to a depth of 4-6 inches. Sow fresh grass seed at a hand-full per m2, and rake it in so you can hardly see it. Use grass seed consisting of a mix of cultivars so if one fails, the others should ensure germination and growth.
One of the rules of grass seed sowing is, "It's better in the ground than in the sack." Now is a good time of year to sow it, and you won't have to water like buggery, (WLB) for a few months or more.
This is the sort of seed I would recommend; https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwiQxoW3lMn2AhUHC-wKHS_XBggQ9pwGCAU
If you get it from a horticultural company who sell a lot of it, it will be fresh, and hence germination will be good.

Hi JS.

Please may I ask about over-seeding a lawn in good condition, but with small gaps where moss or dandelions have been removed.

Is now the time to do this?

Should I bother with a fine mix of sand/loam at the same time?

 

[LamieRobertson]

Hi JS.

Please may I ask about over-seeding a lawn in good condition, but with small gaps where moss or dandelions have been removed.

Is now the time to do this?

Should I bother with a fine mix of sand/loam at the same time?

Concrete it over save time in the future

 

[Jack Straw]

As Jevs says, although I would fork over the bare bits to a depth of 4-6 inches. Sow fresh grass seed at a hand-full per m2, and rake it in so you can hardly see it. Use grass seed consisting of a mix of cultivars so if one fails, the others should ensure germination and growth.
One of the rules of grass seed sowing is, "It's better in the ground than in the sack." Now is a good time of year to sow it, and you won't have to water like buggery, (WLB) for a few months or more.
This is the sort of seed I would recommend; https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwiQxoW3lMn2AhUHC-wKHS_XBggQ9pwGCAU
If you get it from a horticultural company who sell a lot of it, it will be fresh, and hence germination will be good.

Hi JS.

Please may I ask about over-seeding a lawn in good condition, but with small gaps where moss or dandelions have been removed.

Is now the time to do this?

Should I bother with a fine mix of sand/loam at the same time?

Without photos, what I posted above would still be the way to go. If the gaps are really small, make holes with a fork about 1" deep and 1" apart or thereabouts, and rub grass seed in down the holes with your hand. It would then help to rub a bit of soil or sand in to the holes to fill them up.
As above. Now is a very good time to sow grass seed.

 

[Bold Seagull]

As Jevs says, although I would fork over the bare bits to a depth of 4-6 inches. Sow fresh grass seed at a hand-full per m2, and rake it in so you can hardly see it. Use grass seed consisting of a mix of cultivars so if one fails, the others should ensure germination and growth.
One of the rules of grass seed sowing is, "It's better in the ground than in the sack." Now is a good time of year to sow it, and you won't have to water like buggery, (WLB) for a few months or more.
This is the sort of seed I would recommend; https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwiQxoW3lMn2AhUHC-wKHS_XBggQ9pwGCAU
If you get it from a horticultural company who sell a lot of it, it will be fresh, and hence germination will be good.

And how long keeping the dog off a seeded area do you think?

 

[Jack Straw]

And how long keeping the dog off a seeded area do you think?

At least until you can't see the soil and the grass has thickened up and you've cut it on a high setting at least four times. Really, the longer the better.
After you've decided to take the protection away, if you see damage occuring again, put it back up again straight away.

 

[LamieRobertson]

And how long keeping the dog off a seeded area do you think?

Allowing a dog on the grass!!!

 

[Bold Seagull]

Allowing a dog on the grass!!!

he doesn't just go on it, he tears around on it!

 

[WATFORD zero]

Have you considered alternatives to the more traditional green lawn