Probably 25% of them are in that state or have gone past that and dropped or shrivelled up.
Lowest branch is probably 10 foot up with top of the tree another 6 foot above.
So can’t be sure as cannot see them all.
But those that are visible it’s not just the odd one or two.
Cheers for the help Jack.
No sign of Chris, this morning Jack.
He did come round for breaky yesterday.
Question for the experts. I have a wisteria grown from seed in a small pot on the patio. Is it possible to pot it up into a big b'stard (knee high) and expect it to flourish? Or must it go into the free earth? I realise I am likely to be long dead before the bugger flowers, but that's immaterial.
Another question. I have a horse chestnut, now about 3 years old and about 6 feet tall, in my garden. My neighbour wants me to dig it up and rehome it in a park. My question is: is this even feasible now? It would have to be forked out. It has particular sentimental attachment as it was grown fom a conker from Stanley park, Vancouver, a tree that was probably 200 years old and that pegged it the year after I found the conker.
Re Wisteria, 99.9% of plants will do much better planted in the garden. South or west facing aspect and lots of organic matter in the planting hole. Wait until the autumn (after the leaves have all fallen off) to plant out. Water like buggery. Should flower in about four years, so you should be there to see it!
https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/popul...them in fertile, well,(33ft) height and width.
Re Conker tree, again, wait until all the leaves have fallen off in the autumn. Dig it out with a spade, working around the stem about 0.5 m out, to minimise root damage. It doesn't matter if all the soil falls off, but if you can keep the soil on it, even better. Re-plant straight away in a square hole at the same depth as it was in its original location. Depending on the size, it may have to be staked, or all side branches pruned back by three-quarters to reduce weight, to stop wind-rock. Leave the leader (growing tip branch), unpruned. Water like buggery and cover the ground around it with organic matter as a mulch. It will be very important to water like buggery, minimum of once a month from April to September for two years for guaranteed success.
As for its new location in a park, if it's a busy well-used park, you will need to contact who's park it is (Council or whoever) to either get permission or to donate it to them for them to plant. This is necessary as they must know about new trees in case it impacts on maintenance or possibly be a hazard in the future due to location or condition. Most Councils keep a database of every tree on their land to keep a record of checks for safety and maintenance.
On the other hand, there is a work ethic I used to use; " It's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission."!
My mate has come back with this.
"Gloeosporium Rot, or one of the fruit rots. Shouldn't affect the tree."
https://apples.ahdb.org.uk/gloeosporium-rot.asp
Good news!
For what they stock I think it is... as regards to price I guess that’s subjectiveIs Big Plant worth the trek from Brighton for a wander round for us amateurs. (ie Is it big and still cheap without the trade discount?)
They are only open certain days of the week currently and the cafe is closed for now, which is a pity
Just got back from Big Plant - very impressive. They certainly know their stuff and I can see why you professionals use them
That is some selection of old Olives they have. I was sorely tempted but I've had have three in big pots on the terrace for the last 10 years. (I wish I had seen Big Plants selection and prices first). I think I will go back up and get a couple of things, but probably get them delivered.
As I was looking at these old Olives, I started wondering with the old trunk specimens, whether the Med countries are digging up their Olives that have seen better fruit bearing days, chopping off all the branches and sending them over here. A few months in the sun, lots of new growth and Bob's your Auntie's live in lover. Or am I just being cynical ?
And the Cafe is open again.
I'm in the middle of an event. My Albizia is flowering!
Love it Jack. After I saw you on Monday, i popped over to Shoreham to visit a friend and there was an Albizia probably 5 times bigger than yours. Absolutely stunning.
I'm in the middle of an event. My Albizia is flowering!
I would look no further than a Mountain Ash (Rowan) - Sorbus aucuparia. Doesn't grow too big, has nice shaped leaves, white flowers in spring, red berries in late summer and autumn and lovely autumn colour. There are loads of Sorbus, so make sure you get an "aucuparia" and not a named variety. It's a British native, so that's another plus. It is a "small" tree, but can grow to fifteen metres. I've never seen one anywhere near that size. If it gets too big, it can be gently pruned, but you probably won't need to.To [MENTION=259]Jack Straw[/MENTION] and the other gardening sages here, please can you advise me in selecting a small tree for our small front garden.
We’re high on what was chalk downland in Withdean. It’s very windy and gusty for many days in any month of the year, we have thin soil but I’ve dug out a foot of chalk to fill the hole with top soil and some well rotted manure (not the football club).
The tree needs to have a max height of say 4m and like calcareous soil. I’m allergic to tree pollen in a big way in spring, which rules out the otherwise ideal Silver Birch.
Using websites such as RHS plant finder, English Woodlands, E.W.Burrrow and Hillier, I can’t find any suitable trees.
Japanese Maples wouldn’t like the exposed site and various blossoming trees such as Prunus avium would lose all their blossom at the first storm.
Any tree ideas, please?