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[Help] Concrete



1066familyman

Radio User
Jan 15, 2008
15,235
Looks like an oil spill unless it’s the outside tap or hose leaking.

Out of interest why would a path lower than a DPC be an issue?

It wouldn't. What would be an issue is if it was higher than two course of bricks below dpc.
 






GREASED WEASEL

New member
Dec 10, 2017
2,893
Looks like an oil spill unless it’s the outside tap or hose leaking.

Out of interest why would a path lower than a DPC be an issue?

its not really but it's usually about 3 courses (I'm a brickie not a Groundhog) :D

But this is well below and possibly was done well after the house was built

I speak from personal experience, a house I once owned had a dodgy pathway put in, with no adequate drainage

Caused me no end of aggro to sort it
 


Cheshire Cat

The most curious thing..
My patio and path round the side of my house looks similar, except much of it is crazy paving laid sometime in the 1970s I'm told. It has cracked and part of the patio has subsided over time, probably as the original foundations settled and failed. Having said that, it has been like that since we moved on some twenty years ago.

I would like both it and the driveway redone, but the last time I looked at prices it seemed it could cost at least £5000 for the whole area, and possibly a lot more if I wanted more expensive materials.

Not a five minute job, but half an hour tops.
 


Wardy's twin

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2014
8,874
Does anyone know about refurbishing a concrete area in a garden?

Is it a 5 minute job to slosh down a wet mixture and spread it around a bit? How thick a layer is needed? Will it just crack?
c1426d8d5a997057e47f93ad289f1030.jpg


ANY advice very welcome.

difficult to know what to advise based on that picture alone. What do you see as the problem and what do you want as an outcome e.g. is there a subsidence issue that should be fixed or do you just want to 'spruce it up' so it looks better. Are you able to do the work yourself? A small dig around will give you an indication of the depth of concrete and whether bits can prise up. Ultimately issues like these are fixed by the budget limitations. I like the idea of the resin bonded gravel but would guess it might have a limited life span. need a few more pics and measurements...
 






Moshe Gariani

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2005
12,203
Sherlock Holmes fans should have worked out that the pile of scrap wood is the shed/cupboard thing that was standing on top of the dark bit. The darkness is just damp mud that was under the shed so not a problem.
Thanks to all contributors.
Agree that loose gravel is not the answer.
Paving slabs like a sort of patio could work. I’m pretty limited at DIY, How hard would it be? Is not a flat level but does that matter? Would you have to make it level or could you just put the slabs on top of sand?
 








Jesus Gul

Well-known member
Feb 23, 2004
5,514
Get a pressure washer and clean it up. I bet you will be surprised at the difference it makes. Gravel is a horrible idea.

this...and then paint with black heavy duty polyurethane concrete paint. Did it to my front yard and steps - it took a while to get used to it but looks good now it's worn in a bit
 


D

Deleted member 2719

Guest
its not really but it's usually about 3 courses (I'm a brickie not a Groundhog) :D

But this is well below and possibly was done well after the house was built

I speak from personal experience, a house I once owned had a dodgy pathway put in, with no adequate drainage

Caused me no end of aggro to sort it

I bet you have laid a few frogs over the years???
 




D

Deleted member 2719

Guest
Sherlock Holmes fans should have worked out that the pile of scrap wood is the shed/cupboard thing that was standing on top of the dark bit. The darkness is just damp mud that was under the shed so not a problem.
Thanks to all contributors.
Agree that loose gravel is not the answer.
Paving slabs like a sort of patio could work. I’m pretty limited at DIY, How hard would it be? Is not a flat level but does that matter? Would you have to make it level or could you just put the slabs on top of sand?

You could dab and dot the slabs, 5 equal piles like a dice pattern per slab, knock up a 6 sand to one cement ratio or buy some premix and add some plasticiser.

You may have to cut quite a few slabs with a disc cutter so make sure you work out the easiest way to do it. I would also make sure your base surface is clean enough to bond it to it I personally would prefer to key it with a disc cutter first.

You could block pave it with bricks, and sharp sand base, you would still need to make some cuts and make sure you have a solid border all around the area, the wall side, of course, would be fine.

I am not an expert but have done quite a lot of stuff like this in the past. Good luck, you also get the bonus of being able to wolf whistle at just about anyone as they pass you.:whistle:
 




sams dad

I hate Palarse
Feb 7, 2004
6,383
The Hill of The Gun
Dig it up otherwise it will crack etc again in the same places.
If it's just used as a footpath then put 75mm of Type 2 stone down.
Compact it down with a Wacker plate then lay 75 mm of concrete on it but make sure you put some expansion joints in it to take away the chance if it cracking again as it expands and contracts due to heat and cold.

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk

This man knows what he is talking about. :thumbsup:
 








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