Jimbo26
New member
Looking to re-turf the whole back lawn which is about 10m long by 3m wide. Any NSC advice about how to go about the whole thing would be greatly appreciated !! 
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Re-turfing a lawn for NSC gardeners out there
- Thread starter Jimbo26
- Start date
Bold Seagull
strong and stable with me, or...
skipper734
Registered ruffian
I did this 3 years ago. The best pieces of advice I could give are:
only buy what you know you can confidently put down within a couple of days.
try not to tread on the lawn as you put it down, or indeed for a couple of weeks after.
make sure you water it thoroughly. For this reason, April is as good a time as any to put it down
only buy what you know you can confidently put down within a couple of days.
try not to tread on the lawn as you put it down, or indeed for a couple of weeks after.
make sure you water it thoroughly. For this reason, April is as good a time as any to put it down
Bold Seagull
strong and stable with me, or...
I did mine 4 years ago and wish I had done a bit more preparation with the top soil etc. My ground was too compacted and suffered since. Preparation, preparation then a bit more preparation! Buy the best top soil and turf you can afford, and try to ensure it comes fairly local and not on the back of a truck for a couple of days after being taken up...April ideal as Simster says.
BensGrandad
New member
Chap was on Radio Sussex Dig It yesterday morning saying about it and he said the important things to remember are:
1. Make Sure the base is level and firm
2. Lay the turfs like you lay bricks ie putting one complete piece over the previous rows joins.
3. After laying brush Lexington or may have been Levington into the cracks to prevent them curling up.
4. When completely finished water well.
1. Make Sure the base is level and firm
2. Lay the turfs like you lay bricks ie putting one complete piece over the previous rows joins.
3. After laying brush Lexington or may have been Levington into the cracks to prevent them curling up.
4. When completely finished water well.
Jack Straw
I look nothing like him!
The first thing to consider is if you are going to use this area for anything special, or need a soft surface for the kids to fall over on so it has to be grass.
If so, then turf away using advice from previous posters, but the secret is making sure the soil is wet to 6" before you lay it.
If you think that you don't need an area of turf at all, just create a small hard area in the sunniest spot for sitting in, then plant the rest up.
Very low maintenance if the right type of plants are used, will look great and the best bit - no more mowing.
It's amazing how many front gardens have a small square of grass which has to be mown regularly, where as by planting this up is a winner for the pre-mentioned reasons.
If so, then turf away using advice from previous posters, but the secret is making sure the soil is wet to 6" before you lay it.
If you think that you don't need an area of turf at all, just create a small hard area in the sunniest spot for sitting in, then plant the rest up.
Very low maintenance if the right type of plants are used, will look great and the best bit - no more mowing.
It's amazing how many front gardens have a small square of grass which has to be mown regularly, where as by planting this up is a winner for the pre-mentioned reasons.
the slow norris
Active member
Turfed mine last year, agree with everything said above, preparation is the key and watering afterwards. Ours is great now, ready for our 1 yr old to enjoy.
Slightly O/T but seems like an appropriate thread to ask it on, has anyone got any recommendations for a nitrogen product to put on the lawn? Want to do it now so that it kicks in for the coming months of sunshine and growing?
Slightly O/T but seems like an appropriate thread to ask it on, has anyone got any recommendations for a nitrogen product to put on the lawn? Want to do it now so that it kicks in for the coming months of sunshine and growing?
KZNSeagull
Well-known member
Dont go mad on Nitrogen. Balance it with Pottasium, so a general 5:1:5 fertilizer is usually the best. If you overdose on Nitrogen, the blades grow like mad but the roots dont and you want to promote root growth for a decent long lasting lawn. Dont need to worry too much about Phosphorus as there is usually loads in the soil already.
Gazwag
5 millionth post poster
It might be worth pm'ing Marc
Cripes. My allotment is already baking, I had to water some of me fruit bushes already. They need as much water as possible now, as the fruit has to be pollinated.
jevs
Well-known member
Astro turf....the way to go.
Artificial grass, fake grass, synthetic grass and astro turf suppliers for Kent, Surrey, Sussex, Essex and London - The Artificial Grass People
Thank me later
Artificial grass, fake grass, synthetic grass and astro turf suppliers for Kent, Surrey, Sussex, Essex and London - The Artificial Grass People
Thank me later
Getting the soil absolutely level is the key. Once you have that then the actual laying of the turf is easy. If you put the work into the soil, your lawn will thank you for it and you'll have a much nicer lawn as a result. Removing weeds, lumps, bumps (or in our case it seems when the house was build the rubble was simply used as a sub strata under the lawn) and then use a scaffolding plank on its side like a giant spirit level, you can then use the scaffolding plank to kneel on as you go down the lawn laying the turf. That way you don't stand in your nice soil, but kneel on the plank on top of the stuff you've just laid. Once laid water, water, water!! Everynight with a cuppa in one hand and hose hooked up to the water butt in the other - its very theraputic!
If you don't level it, you'll cut the top off the high bits every time you mow, and the low bits will pool and grow moss. This I learnt the hard way
If you don't level it, you'll cut the top off the high bits every time you mow, and the low bits will pool and grow moss. This I learnt the hard way
if there's one piece of advice I make sure everyone gets when they ask me about turfing its this: WATER WATER WATER! Even if it rains you need to be out there with a hose...seriously! Turf dries up quicker than than spilt tea in the Sahara desert at 12 noon, constant watering stops the turf from shrivelling up which would in turn lead to seed & top soil in the gaps.
If you go the seeding route anytime from now onwards is great up until about June then the next best time is early Autumn.
If you go the seeding route anytime from now onwards is great up until about June then the next best time is early Autumn.
I'll Get Me Coat
New member
Don't go to CB Winter, I did mine last year. I purchased their most expensive garden turf, It arrived Friday pm I laid in at 7:00 am the following day and half of it was dead.
So you can imagine what my lawn looks like.
So you can imagine what my lawn looks like.
severnside gull
Well-known member
first level the ground
next grade your top soil to an even fine crumb removing all stones etc. Easy to do with a rake. Keep back a small pile of fine soil
water thoroughly and then rake lightly to remove lumps and bumps you are bound to have missed and water again
lightly dust with sharp sand to help drainage
use a sharp knife and cut your first strip of turf in half
using a half strip to start lay your turf as you would bricks butting the edges together as you would with wallpaper and use fine soil to fill any gaps
oblongs and square lawns are easiest to lay
for a circular lawn lay as a square then use string attached to a spike (old broom handle does) in the centre of the lawn with your knife tied to the other end
to cut curved edges or flower beds use a length of hose pipe to lay out the shape you want
use old planks to walk across the soil so it spreads your weight evenly - try not to walk on the turf until it is bedded in (a week or so)
water thoroughly (minimum 10 to 20 minutes) - never water when there is hot sunshine - early morning and teatime are best
leave overnight then water first and last thing every day for the first week then once a day
if gaps appear between edges, fill with fine soil between watering - they will soon grow together
next grade your top soil to an even fine crumb removing all stones etc. Easy to do with a rake. Keep back a small pile of fine soil
water thoroughly and then rake lightly to remove lumps and bumps you are bound to have missed and water again
lightly dust with sharp sand to help drainage
use a sharp knife and cut your first strip of turf in half
using a half strip to start lay your turf as you would bricks butting the edges together as you would with wallpaper and use fine soil to fill any gaps
oblongs and square lawns are easiest to lay
for a circular lawn lay as a square then use string attached to a spike (old broom handle does) in the centre of the lawn with your knife tied to the other end
to cut curved edges or flower beds use a length of hose pipe to lay out the shape you want
use old planks to walk across the soil so it spreads your weight evenly - try not to walk on the turf until it is bedded in (a week or so)
water thoroughly (minimum 10 to 20 minutes) - never water when there is hot sunshine - early morning and teatime are best
leave overnight then water first and last thing every day for the first week then once a day
if gaps appear between edges, fill with fine soil between watering - they will soon grow together
Last edited:
LamieRobertson
Not awoke
RE CB WINTERS.....have to say i've bought there turf over the last 17 years i've been a self employed gardener and never had a problem...nice people...and nothing wrong with the product....not sure what the guy did who said his was half dead after a day..but whatever it was must hav been wrong.
anyway one can only speak as one finds..and i must have laid quite a fair bit of there turf.
re ROLawn...i've used there top soil....good stuff.
hope tht helps
anyway one can only speak as one finds..and i must have laid quite a fair bit of there turf.
re ROLawn...i've used there top soil....good stuff.
hope tht helps