[Misc] Beekeeping...

[Justice]

Yes, I think folk get quite a buzz out of it though.

Don’t fall for the honey trap

 

[abc]

We have Ukraine, Gaza, Just Stop Oil, relegation, The GE, Potter, Palace, Wokeism, England football (), the NHS, etc etc as subjects on here.
Thank you, thank you for an OP that feels peaceful and centred!
(May I spoil this by pointing out that without pollinators the human race is finished )

 

[butchy]

No beekeeping discussion is complete without a reference to the below…..

 

[mothy]

I read this as book keeping & found it confusing. I can't help with bee keeping. Good luck

 

[Herr Tubthumper]

I was stung by a bee last week. £6 for a jar of honey.

 

[Baldseagull]

Any beekeepers on NSC who would care to share advice with a newbie?

My children gave me a hive for a significant birthday recently... and subsequently I have acquired more equipment from someone on FB marketplace who was selling up. I only went to get a couple of supers and some frames - and after several visits and chats, they decided to give me all of their equipment, which was both nice and a bit of PITA! So now I have many Langstroth deep brood boxes, small supers and loads of assorted frames / crownboards / QEs etc... enough to make up 4 hives.

I bought a nuc of bees at an auction a couple of months ago, and they are installed in one of the hives. They have filled out the brood chamber very well, so I added a small super, but they don't show signs of building any comb out or storing any honey - I understand it has been pretty shocking weather and we are now in a seasonal lull - so I very happy to be patient!

The issue I have is that the nuc frames were for a National hive - so I had to 'adapt' them by attaching them to Langstroth top bars. It is a bit messy because the bees keep building random comb in the gaps at the sides... so I would like to swap them out.

The internet is just so full of beekeeping forums / articles / blogs / Youtubes etc... and everyone has a different opinion!

I am wondering about a second brood chamber with some used comb and some new frames - and gradually moving the bastard frames up there to allow the brood to hatch and hopefully by moving them to the edge they will gradually become less used and can be safely removed Does this sound like a reasonable, if rather slow, plan?

I am then thinking this might lead to being able to do a split (probably with a new bought mated queen) - but slightly concerned how late I can do this - would it be Ok in July some time, or is that too late?

I did also wonder about using one or more of the spare hives as a swarm trap - can't do any harm, can it??

I have tried the local beekeeping association but not found it very helpful - I will resist being rude about them because who knows who is on NSC!!

I run jumbo nationals so I don't know anything about langstroth problems, but I find in mine, the rearmost brood frame usually becomes a full slab of honey. So if I was wanting to dump that frame, I would scoop the honey off the foundation and dump it in a settling tank. The front most brood frame usually becomes a full slab of pollen, which represents a lot of hard work from the bees that I don't have a use for, I wouldn't like to just bin it.
Regarding splits, don't buy any new queen's, use it as a way of swarm control. Before the hive is heading towards full, not much if any space for the queen to lay in, do a split, or artificial swarm. July is ok for a split, It's useful to have 2 hives ir more running near eachother that you can lend a frame of eggs to if the queen gets squashed or starts drone laying.
Bait hive will work eventually, works best with used comb. Hives I have had where the colony died always find new tenants on their own every year, never had one standing that doesn't before the end of the year, but late arrivals with small colony size struggle to get through winter. Sometimes wax moth will ruin the combs and chew the frames up a bit on an empty hive though.

I have never bought any bees, got a split from a mate to start with, later split that, and have been running since on descendants of those or swarms moving in on an empty hive, I don't worry too much about genetics, but I have had to remove a queen once for aggressive bees. I too don't get along with many in my local club, but it can be useful, especially at the start.
There is loads to it, but you can also get away with not doing much if you just let them do their thing and don't let them swarm. It's a bit gutting to find your hive half empty, and a worry that the new queen won't mate well.

 

[Brovion]

I run jumbo nationals so I don't know anything about langstroth problems, but I find in mine, the rearmost brood frame usually becomes a full slab of honey. So if I was wanting to dump that frame, I would scoop the honey off the foundation and dump it in a settling tank. The front most brood frame usually becomes a full slab of pollen, which represents a lot of hard work from the bees that I don't have a use for, I wouldn't like to just bin it.
Regarding splits, don't buy any new queen's, use it as a way of swarm control. Before the hive is heading towards full, not much if any space for the queen to lay in, do a split, or artificial swarm. July is ok for a split, It's useful to have 2 hives ir more running near eachother that you can lend a frame of eggs to if the queen gets squashed or starts drone laying.
Bait hive will work eventually, works best with used comb. Hives I have had where the colony died always find new tenants on their own every year, never had one standing that doesn't before the end of the year, but late arrivals with small colony size struggle to get through winter. Sometimes wax moth will ruin the combs and chew the frames up a bit on an empty hive though.

I have never bought any bees, got a split from a mate to start with, later split that, and have been running since on descendants of those or swarms moving in on an empty hive, I don't worry too much about genetics, but I have had to remove a queen once for aggressive bees. I too don't get along with many in my local club, but it can be useful, especially at the start.
There is loads to it, but you can also get away with not doing much if you just let them do their thing and don't let them swarm. It's a bit gutting to find your hive half empty, and a worry that the new queen won't mate well.

There you go @Titanic someone does know what they're talking about!

The joys of NSC's, er, 'hive mind'.

 

[essbee1]

I run jumbo nationals so I don't know anything about langstroth problems, but I find in mine, the rearmost brood frame usually becomes a full slab of honey. So if I was wanting to dump that frame, I would scoop the honey off the foundation and dump it in a settling tank. The front most brood frame usually becomes a full slab of pollen, which represents a lot of hard work from the bees that I don't have a use for, I wouldn't like to just bin it.
Regarding splits, don't buy any new queen's, use it as a way of swarm control. Before the hive is heading towards full, not much if any space for the queen to lay in, do a split, or artificial swarm. July is ok for a split, It's useful to have 2 hives ir more running near eachother that you can lend a frame of eggs to if the queen gets squashed or starts drone laying.
Bait hive will work eventually, works best with used comb. Hives I have had where the colony died always find new tenants on their own every year, never had one standing that doesn't before the end of the year, but late arrivals with small colony size struggle to get through winter. Sometimes wax moth will ruin the combs and chew the frames up a bit on an empty hive though.

I have never bought any bees, got a split from a mate to start with, later split that, and have been running since on descendants of those or swarms moving in on an empty hive, I don't worry too much about genetics, but I have had to remove a queen once for aggressive bees. I too don't get along with many in my local club, but it can be useful, especially at the start.
There is loads to it, but you can also get away with not doing much if you just let them do their thing and don't let them swarm. It's a bit gutting to find your hive half empty, and a worry that the new queen won't mate well.

Move aside Harry W. Tackle. Word of the day: "Langstroth".

 

[Change at Barnham]

I run jumbo nationals so I don't know anything about langstroth problems, but I find in mine, the rearmost brood frame usually becomes a full slab of honey. So if I was wanting to dump that frame, I would scoop the honey off the foundation and dump it in a settling tank. The front most brood frame usually becomes a full slab of pollen, which represents a lot of hard work from the bees that I don't have a use for, I wouldn't like to just bin it.

Not a clue what any of the above means or any of the other information you shared.
However, thank you for sharing it, it felt very therapeutic reading it.

I look forward to hearing more about Titanic's beekeeping adventure. And congratulations on reaching 65.
p.s. put me down for a jar of your 2025 vintage.

 

[Titanic]

Not a clue what any of the above means or any of the other information you shared.
However, thank you for sharing it, it felt very therapeutic reading it.

I look forward to hearing more about Titanic's beekeeping adventure. And congratulations on reaching 65.
p.s. put me down for a jar of your 2025 vintage.

65 - cheeky bugger!

 

[Titanic]

I run jumbo nationals so I don't know anything about langstroth problems, but I find in mine, the rearmost brood frame usually becomes a full slab of honey. So if I was wanting to dump that frame, I would scoop the honey off the foundation and dump it in a settling tank. The front most brood frame usually becomes a full slab of pollen, which represents a lot of hard work from the bees that I don't have a use for, I wouldn't like to just bin it.
Regarding splits, don't buy any new queen's, use it as a way of swarm control. Before the hive is heading towards full, not much if any space for the queen to lay in, do a split, or artificial swarm. July is ok for a split, It's useful to have 2 hives ir more running near eachother that you can lend a frame of eggs to if the queen gets squashed or starts drone laying.
Bait hive will work eventually, works best with used comb. Hives I have had where the colony died always find new tenants on their own every year, never had one standing that doesn't before the end of the year, but late arrivals with small colony size struggle to get through winter. Sometimes wax moth will ruin the combs and chew the frames up a bit on an empty hive though.

I have never bought any bees, got a split from a mate to start with, later split that, and have been running since on descendants of those or swarms moving in on an empty hive, I don't worry too much about genetics, but I have had to remove a queen once for aggressive bees. I too don't get along with many in my local club, but it can be useful, especially at the start.
There is loads to it, but you can also get away with not doing much if you just let them do their thing and don't let them swarm. It's a bit gutting to find your hive half empty, and a worry that the new queen won't mate well.

Thanks for lots of sound advise! 'rearmost' and 'front' suggest you run your Nationals the 'warm way' ? My Langsroth boxes only come with the one option - which is the 'cold way'... hopefully not a problem unless we have a brutal winter??

The queen / 'let them make their own' seems to be an eternal debate with strong views on both sides - I think perhaps I will go for a 'walkaway' first time and if not successful, then look into buying a new queen in.

 

[emphyrian]

Will you be making Mead with the honey?

 

[Titanic]

Will you be making Mead with the honey?

Who knows... but first, the colony needs to get fully established, and probably a 2nd one too... so honey is not likely to be an issue until later next summer.

Oh, and the small matter of surviving the winter - colony death rates are quite high, even in the mild south of England.

 

[Baldseagull]

Thanks for lots of sound advise! 'rearmost' and 'front' suggest you run your Nationals the 'warm way' ? My Langsroth boxes only come with the one option - which is the 'cold way'... hopefully not a problem unless we have a brutal winter??

The queen / 'let them make their own' seems to be an eternal debate with strong views on both sides - I think perhaps I will go for a 'walkaway' first time and if not successful, then look into buying a new queen in.

Yes, I have them the warm way and always have, so no clue if it is better or not really for getting through winter.
With the bred strains of bees you can select for some attributes, but I am not so sure they behave massively differently anyway. The main thing is that they are generally always docile, mine sometimes can be a bit overly defensive, which can be a problem if you have a small garden.

 

[aftershavedave]

Any beekeepers on NSC who would care to share advice with a newbie?

My children gave me a hive for a significant birthday recently... and subsequently I have acquired more equipment from someone on FB marketplace who was selling up. I only went to get a couple of supers and some frames - and after several visits and chats, they decided to give me all of their equipment, which was both nice and a bit of PITA! So now I have many Langstroth deep brood boxes, small supers and loads of assorted frames / crownboards / QEs etc... enough to make up 4 hives.

I bought a nuc of bees at an auction a couple of months ago, and they are installed in one of the hives. They have filled out the brood chamber very well, so I added a small super, but they don't show signs of building any comb out or storing any honey - I understand it has been pretty shocking weather and we are now in a seasonal lull - so I very happy to be patient!

The issue I have is that the nuc frames were for a National hive - so I had to 'adapt' them by attaching them to Langstroth top bars. It is a bit messy because the bees keep building random comb in the gaps at the sides... so I would like to swap them out.

The internet is just so full of beekeeping forums / articles / blogs / Youtubes etc... and everyone has a different opinion!

I am wondering about a second brood chamber with some used comb and some new frames - and gradually moving the bastard frames up there to allow the brood to hatch and hopefully by moving them to the edge they will gradually become less used and can be safely removed Does this sound like a reasonable, if rather slow, plan?

I am then thinking this might lead to being able to do a split (probably with a new bought mated queen) - but slightly concerned how late I can do this - would it be Ok in July some time, or is that too late?

I did also wonder about using one or more of the spare hives as a swarm trap - can't do any harm, can it??

I have tried the local beekeeping association but not found it very helpful - I will resist being rude about them because who knows who is on NSC!!

ALWAYS ensure that your mask thing is zipped up. I failed to and got 50 stings on my head and ended up in a bed without triage at the County with a histamine and steroid drip!

 

[Titanic]

ALWAYS ensure that your mask thing is zipped up. I failed to and got 50 stings on my head and ended up in a bed without triage at the County with a histamine and steroid drip!

Another thing that causes a lot of controversy on the forums / Youtube etc... plenty of pics/videos of people handling hives and bees, with no gloves, no hood, t-shirts etc... and others with horrific reactions to stings on their faces etc..

Sounds like you had a properly horrible experience. I have had quite a few stings, a couple of times through clothes/beesuit etc... and react pretty badly, usually on the 2nd day - so yes, I am on the cautious side!

 

[Baldseagull]

ALWAYS ensure that your mask thing is zipped up. I failed to and got 50 stings on my head and ended up in a bed without triage at the County with a histamine and steroid drip!

There is some Yank on You tube who wears just shorts, a vest and a bandana when he is working his bees, every couple of minutes he says "Got me!" and slaps his neck or head. Comfort of not overheating is more important to him than the pain of a few stings I guess.

 

[aftershavedave]

Another thing that causes a lot of controversy on the forums / Youtube etc... plenty of pics/videos of people handling hives and bees, with no gloves, no hood, t-shirts etc... and others with horrific reactions to stings on their faces etc..

Sounds like you had a properly horrible experience. I have had quite a few stings, a couple of times through clothes/beesuit etc... and react pretty badly, usually on the 2nd day - so yes, I am on the cautious side!

Caution is the way to go. I kept bees for a couple of years, and bought docile bees (buckmaster or something?) but think the hives were invaded by nasty Reform type fuckers. A year later, I was 30 metres away while my friend tended the hives, and guess what? One came straight at me from nowhere and stung me again. I had a welt the size of a table tennis ball. End of my career!

 

[aftershavedave]

There is some Yank on You tube who wears just shorts, a vest and a bandana when he is working his bees, every couple of minutes he says "Got me!" and slaps his neck or head. Comfort of not overheating is more important to him than the pain of a few stings I guess.

well he's asking for trouble!

 

[Seagull's Return]

Plumpton College run a beginners beekeeping course - I did the first part of it a couple of years ago which was the foundation for the more practical elements, then Mrs Exile decided she didn't want me having a hive in the garden after all unfortunately. I'd very much recommend the course though. There's nothing like a day spent with an expert and I imagine once it gets practical it'll be like a fast-track to getting up and running. I suspect it also plugs you into a network for local advice and obtaining the queens cheaper/easier than online, people who'll help with swarms and so on.

This would be my recommendation too (while I'm no apiarist, I used to work there - Plumpton is a real hub for all things rural)