Hydraulic or Cable Clutch - How to find out?

[sam86]

Calling all car people,

I've just purchased a new (used) car, and the biting point is incredibly high, so I thought I'd adjust it. After doing some research, I've found both hydraulic and cable clutches were used in this model, but how does one go about checking? The car has low mileage and is in great condition, so I'm hoping it's not the clutch going on a cable clutch, and is indeed a hydraulic clutch (which are known for having a high biting point).

I'm then hoping it's the type of hydraulic clutch that you can manually adjust. Alternatively, I just get used to it!

Cheers,
Car Novice.

 

[dougdeep]

Some are adjustable and some aren't. That goes for both hydraulic and cable.

 

[upthealbion1970]

What car is it?

What age and mileage?

Chance the seller knew it needs a clutch

 

[Goldstone1976]

Cut the clutch cable. If fluid leaks out, it's hydraulic; if not, it's cable.

Seriously: Haynes manual? Main dealer should also be able to tell you with the VIN number.

 

[Lady Whistledown]

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

 

[Icy Gull]

New clutch imminent probably

 

[sam86]

What car is it?

What age and mileage?

Chance the seller knew it needs a clutch

Fiat Bravo 2001. 65,000. Well looked after.
Bought from a garage with a good reputation.
They are known to have high biting point hydraulics, so fingers crossed that's the case.

 

[Badger]

New clutch imminent probably

This, I've always thought that a really high biting point means the clutch is almost dead.

 

[Mutts Nuts]

Fiat Bravo 2001. 65,000. Well looked after.
Bought from a garage with a good reputation.
They are known to have high biting point hydraulics, so fingers crossed that's the case.

Sounds like the clutch is about to go

 

[upthealbion1970]

Fiat Bravo 2001. 65,000. Well looked after.
Bought from a garage with a good reputation.
They are known to have high biting point hydraulics, so fingers crossed that's the case.

Fix
It
Again
Tomorrow

They are indeed known for high biting point, however have a look through any history you've got and see if clutch has been done. 65000 miles is approaching the time clutch may well need replacing (depending on driving style of previous owner(s))
If the place you bought it from has a good reputation did you get any warranty?

 

[sam86]

Well this sounds promising! Ha.

We've had cars in the past where we've had the mechanic adjust the biting point, and the clutch was fine, hence my lack of concern.

It doesn't shudder, it doesn't struggle to engage, it's just high.

I'll check the paper work when I get back. Garage offered 1 months warranty, or 1,000 miles. They also put it through an MOT and serviced.

 

[Icy Gull]

Well this sounds promising! Ha.

We've had cars in the past where we've had the mechanic adjust the biting point, and the clutch was fine, hence my lack of concern.

It doesn't shudder, it doesn't struggle to engage, it's just high.

I'll check the paper work when I get back. Garage offered 1 months warranty, or 1,000 miles. They also put it through an MOT and serviced.

Welly it at low speed in 4th gear. Not sure that this is good advice but you'll see if the clutch is slipping I think. *disclaimer I am in no way a mechanic*

 

[upthealbion1970]

Well this sounds promising! Ha.

We've had cars in the past where we've had the mechanic adjust the biting point, and the clutch was fine, hence my lack of concern.

It doesn't shudder, it doesn't struggle to engage, it's just high.

I'll check the paper work when I get back. Garage offered 1 months warranty, or 1,000 miles. They also put it through an MOT and serviced.

You might find it it just has a high biting point

Could be worse, you could have a

Fix
Or
Repair
Daily

Or a

Loads
Of
Trouble
Usually
Serious