If the pin is tapered (which is possible) put the nut back on a few turns and give it a whack with a hammer. This should break the joint made by the tapered pin. Just read your post again.....if the nut is free running then thread probably stripped. If you have a junior hacksaw you could try cutting through nut and pin then use a bolt slightly smaller than pin diameter and knock it out with a hammer. You will obviously have to replace the pin. Hope this helps
Steam it with the kettle for a minute or two, should be able to shift it. Great tip I was taught years ago, when you put a nut on rub vaseline into both threads, that way it seals and lubricates it making it a doddle to remove if the need arise. Also invest in a bike chain wrench (a tool that is literally like a bike chain, it'll grip anything and shift it. Also mole grips, they really will shift anything)
Terminology first Mr Stat. The pin is called a cotter pin and is made of steel. The nut on the end of the spanner ( which end is up to you ) is made of iron, simple physics tells us the nut, Raleigh or not, is history. Do you see what I did there.
As has been already said a hacksaw and a cut down the side of the nut should suffice, this should also do for the cotter pin as well unfortunately.
The R on the nut, unless it's the fancy Raleigh R, has not necessarily been put there by Raliegh. On looking at the Wiki page, it could be Raleigh or more probably be a nut manufacturers mark indicating that the thread is BSF ( British Standard Fine ). Which is probably the case as the thread has stripped. The easiest way to get another R nut and pin is to visit your local tip and keep inspecting the junk bikes until an old Raleigh turns up.
As already said. spin the nut up the thread to give your self a gap between the nut and the crank, the more nut you can keep on the tread the better as its more surface area to transmit the force of the hammer to the cotter pin/crank interference fit, if you have a copper mallet use that (i know not exactly household) if you have a bit of old copper water pipe bash that flat and use that as an interface between the top of the nut and the nut/cotter pin and the hammer. Hit it hard. Dont blame me if it goes wrong
Your pic shows the nut off the cotter pin so you should be able to remove the pin by the following method if the nut is cream crackered. Either use a plastic mallet to give it a tap or a piece of hard wood or similar material to hold on the threaded end and give it a sharp knock with a hammer, the cotter pin is tapered so if its been in a while a squirt of WD40 would help.