[Misc] Fitting uPVC door, but is there a lintel?

Nottseagull · Thursday at 12:25 AM

The partially detached garage of my house had been built with two courses of bricks laid directly over the wooden window frame, with a couple of rafters on top! I was wondering if they might have done the same with this entrance, which is supporting a lot more although I realise it's only the triangle above the frame which is at risk (you should be able to zoom in). I can't see how there could be room for a lintel, unless it was made of thin metal. So, is there any other way to ascertain its presence, please?

Goldstone1976 · Thursday at 3:41 AM

Put an acrow in as far to the left as you can, and another 7/8 of the way across to the right. Remove the remaining 1/8 of the door frame. Investigate further.

Says someone who would call a builder.

Seagull on the Hill · Thursday at 5:53 AM

How old is the house?
Anything built pre-1960's almost certainly won't have a lintel in the outer leaf, as the general practice then was to build the brickwork directly on top of the frame.
The inner leaf will have a lintel, probably concrete.

Nottseagull · Thursday at 5:01 PM

Seagull on the Hill said:
How old is the house?
Anything built pre-1960's almost certainly won't have a lintel in the outer leaf, as the general practice then was to build the brickwork directly on top of the frame.
The inner leaf will have a lintel, probably concrete.

Not sure of the exact year but there's a nice avocado toilet and basin downstairs

Even zoomed in I don't think my pic shows how the brickwork overhangs the door frame, so this one is taken from underneath, into the night sky i.e. that anaglypta is on the ceiling.

(Please ignore attachments below)

Pevenseagull · Thursday at 6:45 PM

I've sent the picture to my Dad who has been a bricklayer for nearly 60 years (quite slow nowadays).

If he comes back with anything other than an impression of Potter pausing for thought I will let you know.

Weststander · Thursday at 7:11 PM

Lintels were used for an age eg concrete or timber. Although in some building work from the 30’s to 50’s only brickwork was laid directly on the door or window frame. Causing obvious issues down the line.

You may have a Catnic type lintel that’s correctly hidden from view.

Nottseagull · 2024-12-22T20:17:30+0000

Weststander said:
Lintels were used for an age eg concrete or timber. Although in some building work from the 30’s to 50’s only brickwork was laid directly on the door or window frame. Causing obvious issues down the line.

You may have a Catnic type lintel that’s correctly hidden from view.

I already knew about those, but didn't know their name. I did test the underside with a powerful tool-holding magnet strip, but there was no attraction.
I've been on YouTube and found somebody screwing a length of baton into each brick, including the bricks at each end which aren't at risk. I'm going to do the same with a length of hardwood baton, but I'm planning to screw them into the vertical mortar joints instead, to avoid damaging the bricks. This is on the basis that the bricks are bonded to the mortar, although I'll obviously have to screw into the right-most brick. Six more (120mm) screws in the joints to the left of it should suffice. I'm planning to do this and replace the door on Christmas Day, unless somebody convinces me that this is not a good idea

Justice · 2024-12-22T20:28:07+0000

Nottseagull said:
I already knew about those, but didn't know their name. I did test the underside with a powerful tool-holding magnet strip, but there was no attraction.
I've been on YouTube and found somebody screwing a length of baton into each brick, including the bricks at each end which aren't at risk. I'm going to do the same with a length of hardwood baton, but I'm planning to screw them into the vertical mortar joints instead, to avoid damaging the bricks. This is on the basis that the bricks are bonded to the mortar, although I'll obviously have to screw into the right-most brick. Six more (120mm) screws in the joints to the left of it should suffice. I'm planning to do this and replace the door on Christmas Day, unless somebody convinces me that this is not a good idea

A decent SDS drill shouldn’t damage bricks If used correctly.

AlbionBro · 2024-12-22T20:28:36+0000

Nottseagull said:
I already knew about those, but didn't know their name. I did test the underside with a powerful tool-holding magnet strip, but there was no attraction.
I've been on YouTube and found somebody screwing a length of baton into each brick, including the bricks at each end which aren't at risk. I'm going to do the same with a length of hardwood baton, but I'm planning to screw them into the vertical mortar joints instead, to avoid damaging the bricks. This is on the basis that the bricks are bonded to the mortar, although I'll obviously have to screw into the right-most brick. Six more (120mm) screws in the joints to the left of it should suffice. I'm planning to do this and replace the door on Christmas Day, unless somebody convinces me that this is not a good idea

I know you have started this job, but I was told by my nephew who knows about this kind of things. That it should be done by someone who is Fensa registered, as it could be an issue when you sell. I don't know if this is still relevant, just thought I should say something.

jackanada · 2024-12-22T21:01:24+0000

AlbionBro said:
I know you have started this job, but I was told by my nephew who knows about this kind of things. That it should be done by someone who is Fensa registered, as it could be an issue when you sell. I don't know if this is still relevant, just thought I should say something.

Yes it seems to be something surveyors and solicitors have learnt recently and you get asked for fensa certification. Happened to a friend recently though he just responded that the window was very well fitted and clearly had no problems. Full disclosure I fitted that window.
Apologies to any window fitters on here but I do find Fensa to be a crock of shit. Yes I have seen some appallingly fitted windows done by builders who've never even heard of toe and heeling which it's creation was meant to reduce, but even since Fensa it's a low percentage of accredited installations I see that I'd be happy with.

AlbionBro · 2024-12-22T21:32:38+0000

jackanada said:
Yes it seems to be something surveyors and solicitors have learnt recently and you get asked for fensa certification. Happened to a friend recently though he just responded that the window was very well fitted and clearly had no problems. Full disclosure I fitted that window.
Apologies to any window fitters on here but I do find Fensa to be a crock of shit. Yes I have seen some appallingly fitted windows done by builders who've never even heard of toe and heeling which it's creation was meant to reduce, but even since Fensa it's a low percentage of accredited installations I see that I'd be happy with.

My nephew was telling me he had heard of a couple pulling out of the sale, mainly because they had nothing to prove they were fitted correctly, I think he was suggesting if they were not screwed into sound brickwork, it could be very dangerous, especially in the upstairs windows. This was probably a decade ago.
We didn't ask when buy our house if there was any certificates at all, but we are not looking to move anytime soon.

Weststander · 2024-12-22T22:14:02+0000

Justice said:
A decent SDS drill shouldn’t damage bricks If used correctly.

Not the hammer drill setting?!

Justice · 2024-12-22T22:20:10+0000

Weststander said:
Not the hammer drill setting?!

Why not? Start at a low speed and you will be fine. Saying that everything is easy when you’ve been at it for more than 30 years.

Weststander · 2024-12-22T22:26:03+0000

Justice said:
Why not? Start at a low speed and you will be fine. Saying that everything is easy when you’ve been at it for more than 30 years.

I bought an SDS drill when we moved in 19 years ago because our internal walls are rock hard engineering bricks. Quality from the Braybon builders in 1940. Only an SDS would cope.

As a non builder, I learnt over time to take it easy with it, also start with a drill bit half a size too small than the fixing instructions.

And wear ear defenders.

What comes easy and is done quickly by you … is a different ball game for an amateur.

Justice · 2024-12-22T22:35:09+0000

Weststander said:
I bought an SDS drill when we moved in 19 years ago because our internal walls are rock hard engineering bricks. Quality from the Braybon builders in 1940. Only an SDS would cope.

As a non builder, I learnt over time to take it easy with it, also start with a drill bit half a size too small than the fixing instructions.

And wear ear defenders.

What comes easy and is done quickly by you … is a different ball game for an amateur.

I’m quite sure my battery powered SDS would power through your brickwork it’s not very loud either. The technology has improved hugely. Back in the day we used to get through lots of mains powered SDS drills they weren’t great.

Weststander · 2024-12-22T22:52:45+0000

Justice said:
I’m quite sure my battery powered SDS would power through your brickwork it’s not very loud either. The technology has improved hugely. Back in the day we used to get through lots of mains powered SDS drills they weren’t great.

That explains. My DeWalt is a mains beast.

Justice · 2024-12-22T22:54:52+0000

Weststander said:
That explains. My DeWalt is a mains beast.

My Dewalt battery sds is very light one handed job great for ladder work.

Weststander · 2024-12-22T23:01:01+0000

Justice said:
My Dewalt battery sds is very light one handed job great for ladder work.

Next job is a first ever go at repointing. A bodge job from 25 years ago, the mortar has systematically popped out. I know what to do from experts including the depth. It’s the bothering to get on with it, the concentration not to cut into brickwork with the angle grinder. Going for weather-struck pointing to match the existing.

Another string to your bow?

Nottseagull · 2024-12-22T23:31:21+0000

Weststander said:
Next job is a first ever go at repointing. A bodge job from 25 years ago, the mortar has systematically popped out. I know what to do from experts including the depth. It’s the bothering to get on with it, the concentration not to cut into brickwork with the angle grinder. Going for weather-struck pointing to match the existing.

Another string to your bow?

I've done pointing before on my first house. It's tedious but satisfying, especially if it's on a spot you view regularly. I found that a tyre lever (plastic or metal) from a bicycle puncture repair outfit was perfectly adequate as it had a curved end. If you're adding lime to the mix as I did (Edwardian house), be aware that it stains the brickwork if you drop some some onto it (you will!) and it's quite difficult to remove.
Do you really need an angle grinder? Maybe search YouTube for less harsh alternatives

drew · 2024-12-22T23:36:06+0000

As Mr O'Riley, builder from Torquay, would say, that's a wooden lintel!!

Got something to say or just want fewer pesky ads? Join us... 😊

[Misc] Fitting uPVC door, but is there a lintel?

Well-known member

We Got Calde in!!

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

meh

Well-known member

Well-known member

Dangerous Idiot

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Dangerous Idiot

Well-known member

Dangerous Idiot

Well-known member

Dangerous Idiot

Well-known member

Well-known member

Drew

Share this page